If you have built this Hachette 1:2 scale Terminator T-800 endoskeleton partwork model, you have likely run into the issue with the batteries dying quickly, even when it is not turned on. Luckily, Chloe over at Model Modz has created a new Terminator Power Mod for our T-800! This mod replaces the batteries in the head as well as the base and allows us to power the entire build with a universal AC power adapter.
NOTE: While it does not affect the installation of this Power Mod in any way, I customized my Base assembly with paint and other details. I wanted to state this up front in case you notice differences in these pictures between how my Base looks and the original Base.
The Power Mod includes:
- Inline Power Switch
- AC-to-DC Wall Adapter (with multi-national plug attachments)
- Power Extension Cable
- Main Power Cable
- Power Adaptor Cable w/ Nut
- Pole Cable Stickers
- Glue for Battery Compartment Plate
- Head Plate File Tool
This Power Mod can start to be installed anytime after receiving the display base’s Battery Box with Issue 117.
Remove your T-800’s magnetic Back of Head plate installed in Issue 107. Also, grab the Head Plate File Tool from the Power Mod box:
We need to file a small notch in the lower rear edge of the Back of Head to allow room for the Main Power Cable. Start with short back-and-forth strokes until the file does not skip around:
Once the notch is deep enough, longer strokes can be used. There is no need to press the file hard into the metal, just let the tool do the work:
Here, I am test fitting the Main Power Cable into the notch. The sides of the notch may need additional filing to be wide enough for the cable:
With the filing completed, this is what the notch in the Back of Head should look like:
Retrieve your T-800’s Base assembly, remove your T-800 endoskeleton, and slide the Battery Box out from the rear edge:
Pop the grey plastic Edging for Battery Box off of the Battery Box. Determine where you would like your new power socket to be installed, then drill a 8mm (5/16″) hole through the Edging, as shown:
On my model, I found a reasonably flat surface that would not interfere with the structural ridges inside the Edging panel and started a pilot hole by twisting the tip of my hobby knife into the plastic. This pilot hole will keep the larger drill bits from skipping around:
Starting with smaller bits, and working up to an 8mm (5/16″) bit, this hole was drilled through the Edging:
Pass the plug end of the Power Adaptor Cable through the hole we just drilled, as shown:
Fully seat the barrel plug of the Power Adapter Cable into the hole:
On the back side, slide the hexagonal Nut included with the Power Adapter Cable over the plug end of the wires, and screw it onto the threads of the barrel plug, as shown.
This nut can be tightened by hand, but a pair of needle-nose pliers might make it easier for builders with larger fingers:
Remove the Upper Part of Stand from the Lower Part of Stand by pressing in on the pins of the two Stand Inserts.
If needed, you should also remove the loose Discarded Skull (over the Power Switch) and the loose Chain detail from your Base assembly:
Turn your Base assembly on its side. Then, remove the four (4) PB 3×6 mm screws holding the Backing Panel that covers the Battery Box, and set the Backing Panel to the side:
Remove the four (4) PB 3×6 mm screws holding the center metal Circuit Board Cover in place, then side the entire Circuit Board Cover and Lower Part of Stand out through the Base assembly and set it aside:
Unplug the Battery Box and remove it. The Power Mod replaces the function of this entire assembly, so it is no longer needed:
Glue the modified Edging for Battery Box into the opening where the Battery Box used to be. A small tube of Super Glue has been included with the Power Mod in case you do not have any:
Connect the two matching plugs of the Power Adapter Cable and the Main Power Cable together. Match the two red dots together to ensure the correct polarity:
Connect the nearby plug of the Main Power Cable to the socket on the Main Circuit Board where the Battery Box used to be:
Feed the free end of the Main Power Cable through one of the two large holes in the Base assembly used for the Stand, as shown.
The Main Power Cable can be fed through either of the two large holes, but the one closer to where the Power Switch under the Skull is located has a little more room to work with:
Begin to rebuild your Base by sliding the Lower Part of Stand/Circuit Board Cover assembly back up through the holes of the Base (red arrows below). Take care to allow space for the Main Power Cable (yellow arrow below) to keep from damaging it:
Re-secure the Circuit Board Cover and Backing Panel to the bottom of the Base assembly using the same eight (8) PB 3×6 mm screws we removed earlier:
Turn your Base assembly right side up.
If so desired, the Main Power Cable can be gently nudged to the rear side of the Lower Part of Stand tubing, as shown:
Using one of the provided Pole Cable Stickers, secure the Main Power Cable to the bottom area of the Lower Part of Stand.
Feel free to route this Main Power Cable up to the head in any way you like. I ran mine behind the Stand so it would not be as visible:
Reattach the Upper Part of Stand to your Lower Part of Stand. Then, use another Pole Cable Sticker to further secure the Main Power Cable to the Lower Part of Stand just below where the Upper Part of Stand stops:
Finish securing the Main Power Cable to the Upper Part of Stand with two more Pole Cable Stickers.
Extra Pole Cable Stickers are provided to use as you like:
Retrieve your T-800 endoskeleton and place him back on the Stand. Disconnect the Battery Box inside the head from the Circuit Board and remove the Battery Box. The Power Mod replaces the function of this Battery Box so it is no longer needed:
Connect the plug on the end of the Main Power Cable into the same socket on the Circuit Board:
Tuck the Main Power Cable wiring inside the head, then fit the modified Back of Head plate back into place. Ensure the Main Power Cable fits down through the notch we created earlier:
Any extra slack in the Main Power Cable can be tucked in between the back of your T-800 and the Stand:
Step 13 (Optional)
If you like, you can use super glue the Main Power Cable in between the vertebrae of the neck to make it a little neater. Be sure to leave enough cable free above this area to allow for head movement:
Powering It Up
Connect the AC-to-DC Wall Adapter to the Inline Power Switch, then connect the Inline Power Switch to the Power Extension Cable.
Interchangeable plugs are included with the Wall Adapter to suit most global power outlets. Here, I am using the US plug type:
If needed, turn OFF (O) the main Power Switch on the Base assembly (under the Discarded Skull):
Plug the Wall Adapter into a nearby AC outlet, then connect the Power Extension Cable to the new barrel socket on your Base assembly:
Press the ON (I) side of the Inline Power Switch to supply power to the model. We can now turn ON (I) the main Power Switch under the Discarded Skull as well. Using the T-800’s Remote Control, we can test the functions of the Base assembly:
To turn on the head, we still need to temporarily remove the Back of Head plate and press the button on the Circuit Board for a few seconds. Unfortunately, this is how Hachette designed the Circuit Board to operate. All functions of the head should be working now:
That’s it, we have completed the installation and operation of the Power Mod!
I completed my T-800 build only a few months ago and all of the batteries were dead already. Now, I don’t have to worry about any batteries dying or corroding inside my model ever again.
I really enjoy the simple installation and operation of this Terminator Power Mod and especially appreciate the attention given to making this product blend in with the mechanical look of our T-800s. It is nearly invisible and works perfectly. Thank you Model Modz for your continued support of our partworks community!